The concept of Food Artistry conjures different things for different
people.
To some, this brings to mind one of the many contests on
Food Network, typically themed around a holiday like Halloween or Christmas,
where chefs design and build elaborate edible displays. “Edible art,” if you will. While the displays are often actually made of
fondant or spun sugar, nobody really ever intends to eat those displays.
To others, the notion of Food Artistry brings to mind dishes
they’ve been served in restaurants where the plating of the food is statuesque. Elements of the dish piled high or wide, the
plate painted with a balsamic reduction or similar such material. Tasty dishes all dolled up for their coming
out party.
Tonight, our family experienced the ultimate in Food
Artistry at a restaurant called Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills,
NY. Now, we’ve been to this restaurant
before. But it never fails to surprise
and impress us.
Over the course of four hours (yes, really – 4 hours), we
were served thirty-five (yes, really – 35) different plates or courses of
food. Each was different from what came
before it. Each was a small bite of a
distinctive taste. And aside from being
delicious and distinctive in its own right, every single course was presented
distinctively – from marinated vegetables on short metal spikes, on miniature
gold trees, plated on a piece of slate, served on the bark of an oak tree,
resting on a plate of sesame seeds, on a lazy Susan of assorted condiments and fixings,
and in hexagonal stacked dishes that were unstacked by our waiter to form a
honeycomb pattern of 12 dishes on the table at the same time.
The quality and attention to detail were exquisite; the
presentations were creative and inventive, and yet they were all completely in
keeping with the farm atmosphere of the restaurant (which is situated on an
actual farm from which many/most of the ingredients are sourced.
As each course was served, typically in unison by multiple
waiters, we were given an explanation of each dish – the ingredients, how they
were prepared and where they came from.
We were fascinated to try tastes we had never experienced before – and learned
a lot about spices, roots, vegetables and other types of food in the process.
Through the entire meal, my daughter took notes about the
dishes so she’d remember the experience.
Not sure we captured them all but here’s a list of what we think we ate
tonight:
- Vegetables on spikes
- Orion fennel
- Pea shoots with lemon
vinaigrette
- Homemade ginger ale (with a
sharp, fresh ginger taste)
- Celery root jerky
- Herb potato chips, dried red
cabbage, dried kale, seckle pear and pear bread slices served in a gold painted
tree
- Beet sushi
- Pork pastrami
- Pickled vegetables with carrot
mustard
- Black trumpet mushroom,
vichyssoise, and sage and squash whoopie pies
- Chick pea and pancetta served on a
stick
- Beet and goat cheese burger on
almond bun
- Liver and chocolate
- Turmeric tea with green apple (tasted
like mulled cider)
- Oysters (3 kinds -- Shiso, apple
and moscato, and American sturgeon, sour cream and dill)
- Bone char cheese, preserved plum
and bone marrow
- Celery root risotto with charcoal squid
- Brioche, kale & spinach
marmalade, fresh ricotta, cracked pepper (served at a chef’s table in the
middle of the bustling kitchen)
- Farm tacos – kohlrabi shells, bay
scallops, mullet, broccoli guacamole, radish slaw, carrot yogurt, watermelon
hot sauce, potted herbs (presented with scissors so you can cut what you want
off of the plant itself), salt with lobster roe, and dehydrated corned beef
- Potato onion bread, farm butter,
pig lard and celery salt
- Farm egg, speck, Swiss chard
- Hudson Valley duck and endive,
smoked raisin sauce
- Berkshire pork, grains and carrot
puree
- Ham and greenhouse herb salad
- Parsnips cooked in hay
And for dessert….
- Graham cracker, hibiscus and
pumpkin
- Sprouted rye, pecans and apricot
- Spelt, apple and Stone Barns honey
ice cream
- Squash jam with warm sourdough
biscuits
- Shortbread biscuits
- Honey and sesame truffles
- Quince gelee
- Red delicious apple slices and
honey
- Seckle pears
- Chocolate hazelnut needles in a
(literal) haystack
If you want to experience true food artistry, we would
strongly recommend a visit to Blue Hill at Stone Barns.
-- Frosty
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